Marc Jacobs Debuts New Collection

The clean girl aesthetic is officially gone. Marc Jacobs made his off-season Spring 2027 statement inside the New York Public Library this week, featuring bright colors, fun accessories and glamour. 

Set against the grandeur of one of New York City’s most iconic spaces, Jacobs leaned into a mood that felt strikingly in tune with the city this summer, bold and alive. It was a collection that encouraged indulgence: in fashion, in beauty, and in self-expression.

Let’s start with the beauty. The makeup was the ultimate slap in the face to clean girls everywhere. Heavy dark eye makeup, bright, berry toned lip colors, and overall playful makeup looks. 

While Marc Jacobs has become known for exaggerated proportions and theatrical silhouettes, like the Autumn/Winter 2018 collection; this collection felt slightly more understated. The layering remained, but in a more intentional form. Instead of oversized sculptural shapes, Jacobs focused on building dimension through texture and styling.

One of the strongest visual trends throughout the collection was the use of sheer, plastic-like fabrics that gave garments an almost laminated effect, creating shine and transparency without sacrificing structure. Colored tights appeared repeatedly, too, in vibrant turquoise, rich maroon, and bright yellow, acting almost as accessories themselves and adding contrast to otherwise sleek looks.

That contrast defined the collection. Jacobs avoided prints almost entirely, instead relying on bold clashes of color to create tension and excitement. The styling felt maximalist without being messy.

Accessories pushed the looks even further. Layered necklaces stacked heavily at the collarbone, belts were doubled and tripled at the waist, and jewelry felt intentionally excessive, a styling choice that nodded to millennial-era fashion but with a sharper, more polished edge.

Closing the show were three fringe-covered mini dresses, each paired with colored tights, bringing the collection to its clearest conclusion: party girl dressing is back. Movement, texture, and nightlife energy dominated the finale, ending the show on a note of celebration rather than restraint.

If this collection is any indication, Jacobs isn’t interested in subtlety this season. And if New York follows his lead come September, we may be entering a fashion cycle where bold beauty replaces the polished simplicity of the past few years.

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