Madame President Claudia Sheinbaum, First Female President of Mexico and the imporance of fashion and politics

Breaking Boundaries in Fashion: Erik Rosete and AHF’s Impact on Emerging Designers

The Genesis of AHF: A Vision for the Underrated

Rosete’s entry into the fashion world was shaped by a clear and crucial need: platforms for emerging designers in costume and couture fashion. “There’s a massive gap where talented artists and costume designers are often overlooked,” Rosete explains. “We need to create space for them to shine and be credited for their work.” AHF was founded with this mission in mind — to provide a platform for emerging artists to showcase their designs while also ensuring they receive the recognition they deserve.

His passion for this cause became particularly evident when he saw the underappreciation of costume designers, who often remain behind the scenes despite the pivotal role they play in the creation of iconic looks. With his leadership, AHF aims to fill this gap by providing a stage where designers can showcase their creativity, and in doing so, earn the credit they deserve.

One of the significant turning points for AHF came when Rosete had the opportunity to do a project with Kendal Jenner, a milestone that helped elevate AHF’s visibility and credibility in the fashion industry. By providing high-quality, artistic content for high-profile events, AHF has been able to not only highlight emerging designers but also challenge the established norms of the industry. “It’s not just about putting on a show,” Rosete states. “It’s about creating something with substance, something that celebrates artistry.”

AHF: Supporting Designers While Changing the Industry

AHF doesn’t just cater to the needs of emerging designers by giving them visibility — it helps them grow and thrive in a competitive industry. One of AHF’s greatest strengths is its ability to assist designers with sponsorships and promotional efforts, something many young creators struggle with due to limited budgets or connections. Rosete emphasizes that AHF offers a more cost-effective solution to designers compared to traditional industry options.

“Many emerging designers would otherwise have to spend a lot more on platforms that aren’t necessarily as supportive. AHF is more affordable and provides them with high-quality content that reflects their vision,” Rosete explains. This balance of affordability and quality content is crucial in a world where the cost of showcasing fashion can often be a barrier to entry.

The help AHF offers goes beyond just financial support. The platform gives designers the chance to connect with influential figures in the fashion industry, providing them with networking opportunities that may otherwise be inaccessible. “It’s all about building relationships and helping designers get the right exposure,” Rosete notes. “AHF is about pushing boundaries and making sure these creatives are recognized for their brilliance.”

AHF’s Global Vision: Expanding to New Frontiers

As AHF continues to evolve, Rosete’s vision for the future of the brand is just as ambitious as its past. “We are not just thinking about growth within the United States,” Rosete reveals. “We want to make AHF a global force, bringing talent from around the world into the spotlight.” This expansion will allow AHF to reach a wider audience and bring more international designers into the fold, creating a truly global network of creatives.

By broadening its reach, AHF seeks to break down geographical barriers and provide a platform where designers from diverse backgrounds can collaborate, exchange ideas, and showcase their unique perspectives. 

AHF’s Lasting Impact

Looking at the impact of AHF thus far, it’s clear that the platform is reshaping the way we view fashion shows and emerging talent as well as established designers. Through its commitment to diversity, inclusivity, and high-quality content, AHF is setting new standards in the industry. It is a brand that not only supports but empowers the designers of tomorrow, creating lasting change for those who have been historically overlooked.

In a world where many young talents are often left behind, AHF provides an essential platform for designers to not only showcase their creativity but to be celebrated for their contributions to the world of fashion. Under Erik Rosete’s leadership, AHF is breaking barriers and paving the way for a new era of fashion — one that’s accessible, inclusive, and filled with endless possibilities.

As AHF continues to grow, it remains steadfast in its commitment to creating space for emerging designers as well as established designers to thrive and get the recognition they deserve. For Rosete, the future is bright, and he’s just getting started.

Bastard Aristocrats: Hector Maclean on Reclaiming British Identity, Punk Rebellion, and Sustainable Fashion

Lucy: Hi Hector! So I was hoping you could tell us a little more about Bastard Aristocrats and how your own background inspired it?

Hector: Sure! Well, yeah, my ancestor, Lady Bellasis: she slept with the king, so technically I’m a bastard aristocrat! But I grew up in a council house, and that's the kind of dichotomy of everyone can be royalty in their own way, and all deserve to wear a crown, and class doesn't really mean anything. We can all be royalty.

Lucy: And I suppose that has inspired your personal design philosophy as well?

Hector: Totally! As British people, it's such a melting pot of, like, old and new and all different kinds of surroundings. You live next to opulent buildings and trash cans and that’s the London feeling.

Lucy: So I guess that kind of leads to the question I had about the Union Jack. I noticed a lot of them during the show. I've particularly noticed there's been a rise in repping the union jack. Why do you think it resonates with you, and why do you think it's resonating now with the general public but not how you'd expect it to traditionally?

Hector: I think we want to be patriotic. We're ready for this kind of thing. I think things are so hard right now, but I think we want to be British from the UK. We accept everyone. We want everyone feel like they’re home. It's down to trying to reclaim the flag. and I guess that’s probably why

Lucy: And this leans into the punk philosophy as well?

Hector: Yeah! We’re allowed to be decadent, aristocratic and also punk as well. That’s British.

Lucy: Speaking of punk, you worked with Vivienne Westwood for a while, how has her work inspired you and this collection?

Hector: I did! It was lovely. I think just her punky style. I swore away from tartan though. I am not touching tartan with a barge pole! But I think just her essence of punk rebellion and Britishness. Viv will always be part of my heart! It’s Viv!

Lucy: When you were casting the runway, what was your idea and how did you go about choosing models?

Hector: Oh! Just British huns! We wanted just punky, strong, gorgeous girls and guys who are just British and strong and fun

Lucy: Sustainability is a big part of your ethos. What is your approach to that and does it make it harder for you?

Hector: It does. I think it always does because you’re trying to save the environment, you're trying to stop pollution, you're trying to use sensible dyes, all those kinds of things. So it just limits your design capabilities. But you just have to be innovative.

Lucy: Do you have any designers that you admire, perhaps ones that are very sustainable or otherwise?

Hector: It’s mostly friends! Like the lovely Charles Jefferies, but I have a lot of respect for my colleagues and of course Viv! [Vivienne Westwood]

Lucy: You’re from the UK, but is there a particular area of the UK that inspired your Collection?

Hector: A bit of Brighton? Yeah the punky and grittiness of it? I live just outside of it

Lucy: I’m from Brighton as well! Outside of work, do you have any passions or hobbies?

Hector: This takes a lot of my time! I’m not going to lie! But lots of painting, illustrating. That’s what I do day to day. Not the painting for this collection though!

Lucy: Who did the painting for this collection?

Hector: Lots of wonderful people behind the scenes!

Lucy: Well thank you for taking the time to talk to me

Hector: Of course! Really enjoyed it

Hongshan Feng: Garden Birds, Silent Strength, and a New Vision of Fashion.

This past New York Fashion Week, a quiet yet powerful voice emerged on the runway—Hongshan Feng, a Chinese designer based in New York, debuted her ethereal and thought-provoking collection inspired by fragility, resistance, and the natural world. A current student at Parsons School of Design, Feng’s show marked not only a milestone in her career, but also the arrival of a fresh, poetic force in the fashion landscape.

Her latest collection, Garden Birds, is a deeply personal narrative. “I saw a fallen bird on my way home one day, and it really stayed with me,” Feng shared. “It made me reflect on the fragility of life.” That fleeting image became the emotional seed of a collection that explores the intersection of nature, womanhood, and resilience. “The bird, to me, is nature. But it’s also a metaphor for women—the struggle, the strength, and the breaking free.”

Each garment tells a part of that story. Crafted through meticulous upcycling, with textures that recall medical bandages and the delicate weightlessness of feathers, Feng blends fine art with fashion, pulling from a lifelong background in traditional Chinese craftsmanship and architectural form. “Each piece must have a soul,” she says. “My design philosophy centers on sustainability and emotional impact. I don’t want to limit it.”

Influenced by UMA WANG and Dries Van Noten, Feng’s aesthetic leans into abstract narrative, slow fashion, and material experimentation. But her presentation goes far beyond fabric. Casting is equally intentional. “I look for authenticity—not the industry’s ideal. I want models who can express emotion with their whole bodies,” she explains. “Garden birds have strength in silence, and I want that to live in the performance too.”

In a fashion world slowly pivoting toward storytelling, conscience, and cultural identity, Feng finds excitement. “It’s not just about the garment anymore. It’s about the why. The craft. The history. The soul.”

Though she’s still at the beginning of her career, Feng’s creative trajectory has been shaped by years immersed in fine art, traditional Chinese culture, and architectural study. “My family was always connected to Chinese culture. I remember visiting heritage sites and learning about ancient structures. The way architecture held stories—fashion became a similar medium for me.”

What she’s most proud of right now is simple: Garden Birds. “It’s the closest I’ve ever felt to my own work,” she says. “It’s about engaging with the present—telling a story that can touch someone, even if just quietly.”

With emotional depth, reverence for craft, and a poetic mind that sees beauty in both decay and endurance, Hongshan Feng is one to watch—and, more importantly, to feel.

London Fashion Week SS24: Fashion Scout como plataforma para Nuevos Talentos diversos internacionales en Londres y Europa

¿Qué es Fashion Scout? Fashion Scout es una iniciativa que ofrece a diseñadores internacionales emergentes la oportunidad de presentar sus colecciones durante London Fashion Week. Fundada en 2006, Fashion Scout ha sido reconocida por su enfoque innovador, sirviendo como un trampolín para jóvenes talentos que desean entrar en el competitivo mundo de la moda. Sin embargo, esta iniciativa será la plataforma principal en Londres con la misión de apoyar y promover a diseñadores que aún no cuentan con la infraestructura o los recursos para organizar sus propios desfiles. 

Uno de los mayores logros de Fashion Scout es su capacidad para descubrir diseñadores que luego se convierten en figuras clave en la industria de la moda. Algunos de los nombres más destacados que han pasado por sus pasarelas incluyen a Bora Aksu, Eudon Choi y Zoe Jordan, quienes, gracias a la visibilidad obtenida en Fashion Scout, lograron atraer la atención de grandes marcas, compradores internacionales y medios de comunicación globales. 

La compañía no solo ofrece un espacio para la presentación de colecciones, sino también el apoyo necesario en términos de marketing, relaciones públicas y asesoramiento estratégico. Esto permite que los diseñadores tengan la oportunidad de enfocarse en la creatividad mientras reciben la orientación necesaria para posicionar su marca a nivel global. Con esto, ellos pueden formar atención alrededor de su marca y crear “hype” sobre el surgimiento del futuro de la moda: marcas internacionales que no están centradas en Europa ni en Estados Unidos. 

Hablé con uno de los trabajadores de Fashion Scout en Londres. Mark Mathews, un intern por Fashion Scout dice, “el problema con la moda hoy en día es que hay un énfasis en el sobreconsumo de moda que se presenta en todas las facetas de la industria, lo que crea esta mentalidad de consumo en la que se cree que es necesario comprar ropa de Shein y otras marcas de moda rápida. Nadie está mirando la moda lenta o la moda reciclada, que no solo es sostenible, sino que además ofrece piezas más atemporales que de otra manera no encontrarías en lugares como SHEIN o Forever 21, que son los mayores contribuyentes al sobreconsumo, al trabajo esclavo y a la destrucción del medio ambiente.” 

Continúa enfatizando que, “otro problema es que muchas de las marcas más conocidas, como Burberry y Tommy Hilfiger, por ejemplo, reciben millones de dólares en financiación cada año, lo que limita el poder de visibilidad que estas marcas podrían tener, pero se ven opacadas por los grandes desfiles en los que

más personas prestan atención. Fashion Scout, por otro lado, ofrece un acceso más fácil a marcas más pequeñas para que puedan mostrar sus prendas en la pasarela, lo que atrae a un público más joven que quiere ver diferentes propuestas en la pasarela, más allá de la visión tradicional de los desfiles en Londres. Los jóvenes son el futuro de la moda, quiero decir, miren a los graduados de moda de FIT, UAL y Parsons, que están presentando colecciones que se desvían del status quo y son quienes marcan las tendencias en la moda,” dice Mark. 

Otro aspecto que distingue a Fashion Scout es su compromiso con la diversidad y la sostenibilidad. En los últimos años, ha adoptado un enfoque inclusivo al dar cabida a diseñadores de distintas partes del mundo, independientemente de su origen o trayectoria. Además, ha apoyado iniciativas que promueven la moda responsable, alentando a los diseñadores a integrar prácticas sostenibles en sus colecciones y procesos de producción. Con el paso de los años, Fashion Scout ha consolidado su posición como una de las compañías más influyentes para el descubrimiento de nuevos talentos internacionales. La oportunidad de mostrar una colección en el corazón de la industria de la moda no solo es una excelente plataforma para los diseñadores, sino también una muestra del dinamismo y la constante renovación de Londres como epicentro de la creatividad en la moda global.

Saint Laurent PE24 : Une Leçon de Puissance Silencieuse et de Séduction ÉpuréeParis, février 2024

Baignée d’une lumière cinématographique et tamisée, Saint Laurent a dévoilé sa collection Printemps/Été 2024 — une véritable démonstration de sobriété, de sensualité et d'élégance parisienne réinventée. Le directeur artistique Anthony Vaccarello poursuit ici son exploration d’une féminité sculpturale, sûre d’elle, dans une collection minimaliste mais intensément expressive.

Loin du spectaculaire et du tapage qui caractérisent souvent la Fashion Week, Vaccarello a misé sur une esthétique épurée, maîtrisée et puissante. Les silhouettes allongées glissaient sur un podium miroitant, dans des teintes profondes inspirées du désert — olive, ocre, sable, rouille — évoquant subtilement la chaleur du Maroc, terre d’inspiration d’Yves Saint Laurent.

Pièce phare de cette saison : la combinaison utilitaire, revisitée dans des matières nobles comme le cuir souple, le coton structuré ou encore la soie lavée. Chaque look, renforcé par des vestes à épaules marquées, des bottes montantes et des bijoux dorés discrets, jouait sur l’équilibre entre force et sensualité.

« Cette collection parle d’aisance et de confiance. Une femme qui n’a rien à prouver — elle est, tout simplement », a déclaré Vaccarello en coulisses.

Côté accessoires, le minimalisme restait de mise : lunettes aviateur surdimensionnées, ceintures fines, sacs iconiques revisités en textures brutes. Le maquillage était naturel, les cheveux lissés, et le casting célébrait une diversité sobre mais affirmée, mélangeant muses fidèles et nouveaux visages.

La presse a salué cette approche subtile mais saisissante. « Un antidote au chaos sur stylisé de la saison », a noté Vogue Runway. « Vaccarello redéfinit le luxe silencieux pour une femme qui ne chuchote pas — elle observe.»

Avec cette collection PE24, Saint Laurent n’a pas eu besoin d’élever la voix. Dans une semaine où la mode cherche encore ses repères, la maison a imposé son rythme : calme, assurée, et inoubliable.

Justin Cassin, A breaking revolution from Australia to London.

Australian designer Justin Cassin made a powerful entrance onto the London Fashion Week stage this February with his official UK debut—a sleek, sharply tailored collection that redefined modern masculinity for a global audience. Known in his home country for effortlessly merging classic menswear with contemporary street sensibility, Cassin brought his signature aesthetic to London with elevated refinement and international ambition.

The show, held in the historic Freemasons’ Hall, attracted fashion insiders, stylists, and editors eager to see how the label would translate in one of fashion’s most dynamic capitals. What they witnessed was a confident, cohesive collection titled “Axis,” blending structured silhouettes with fluid layering, tech-inspired materials, and a muted palette of navy, charcoal, off-white, and khaki.

Cassin played with contrasts throughout—supple leather bombers paired with tailored trousers, oversized coats draped over second-skin knits, and cropped jackets matched with wide-leg pants. Functional detailing like zip accents, modular collars, and utility straps spoke to his interest in merging form and function, echoing today’s evolving relationship between identity and dress.

“This collection is about strength through simplicity,” Cassin said backstage. “I wanted to design pieces that move with the wearer, pieces that speak to confidence without shouting.”

Critics praised the debut for its wearability without sacrificing edge—a balance not always easy to strike. A standout look included a slate gray double-breasted trench paired with a semi-sheer black turtleneck, while a minimalist wool suit with tonal stitching drew comparisons to early Helmut Lang and Jil Sander.

The collection’s refined minimalism, combined with Cassin’s precise tailoring, positions the brand squarely in the international menswear conversation—one that is increasingly focused on functionality, fluidity, and quiet power.

As London continues to champion emerging talent with a strong point of view, Justin Cassin’s debut felt not just timely, but necessary. It was a reminder that menswear, too, can lead with subtlety, purpose, and style.

Models of Diversity: Fashion Revolution Ignites London Fashion Week Summer 2023 with Radical Inclusion

In a season marked by spectacle and excess, one show cut through the noise with purpose and power: Models of Diversity: Fashion Revolution. Held during London Fashion Week Summer 2023, this groundbreaking event wasn’t just a runway—it was a rallying cry for representation, body autonomy, and true industry reform.

Founded by campaigner and former model Angel Sinclair, Models of Diversity has long advocated for increased visibility of disabled, plus-size, older, and racially diverse models in mainstream fashion. But Fashion Revolution marked a new chapter: a bold, unapologetic takeover of fashion week’s most prestigious stage. The show spotlighted over 40 models from historically excluded communities, including trans and non-binary talent, wheelchair users, amputees, and survivors of visible trauma—many of whom were walking a major runway for the first time.

From the first step onto the catwalk, the energy was electric. Streetwear merged with couture, adaptive design met editorial edge, and every look—whether a custom corseted gown, an athleisure-forward ensemble, or a prosthetic-enhanced power suit—told a story of resilience, beauty, and joy. Designers featured included up-and-coming talents like Kiyana Rowe, Hassan Nouri, and Studio Reframe, all of whom created with accessibility and inclusivity at the core of their collections.

“We’re not here to tick boxes,” Sinclair said in her opening remarks. “We’re here to dismantle them.”

Backstage, models spoke about what the moment meant to them. For 64-year-old runway newcomer Joan Mbatha, the show was “a reclaiming of time.” For wheelchair model and activist Elliot James, it was “a middle finger to an industry that once said we didn’t belong.”

The event concluded with a standing ovation, as all the models returned for a final walk—arms linked, smiles wide, unified in defiance and pride. Press coverage poured in across Vogue UK, The Guardian, and Dazed, hailing the show as “the emotional epicenter of London Fashion Week.”

In a year where fashion is grappling with accountability, Fashion Revolution proved that radical inclusion isn’t a trend—it’s the future. And it walked that runway in full light, on its own terms.

Dior Cruise 2024: Un Homenaje Deslumbrante al Arte y la Herencia Indígena de MéxicoCiudad de México, mayo de 2023

En una fusión magistral entre la alta costura francesa y el patrimonio cultural mexicano, Dior presentó su colección Crucero 2024 en el corazón de la Ciudad de México. El desfile tuvo lugar en el Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, un espacio cargado de historia, donde Frida Kahlo estudió y conoció a Diego Rivera. Bajo el aura de esta locación emblemática, Maria Grazia Chiuri, directora creativa de la maison, ofreció un espectáculo que celebró profundamente el alma de México: sus artistas, sus mujeres y sus raíces indígenas.

Más que una pasarela, fue un acto de colaboración e intercambio cultural. Chiuri trabajó de la mano con artesanas mexicanas y comunidades textiles que conservan técnicas prehispánicas y tradicionales. El resultado fue una colección impregnada de historia viva: bordados Tenango, rebozos transformados en capas y faldas, y siluetas como el huipil, reinterpretadas a través del prisma de la alta costura parisina.

“La colección es un homenaje a las mujeres profundamente creativas de México, tanto del pasado como del presente”, comentó Chiuri. La influencia de Frida Kahlo se sintió con fuerza, no como cliché, sino como inspiración auténtica: corsés estructurados, chaquetas marcadas y accesorios surrealistas evocaban el espíritu rebelde y visionario de la icónica artista.

La paleta cromática se inspiró en la tierra: tonos de ocre, rojo arcilla, negro obsidiana y verde cactus, combinados con bordados florales intensos de inspiración oaxaqueña. Las piezas de cuero fueron trabajadas a mano por artesanos de Oaxaca y Michoacán, mientras que los encajes y tejidos de ganchillo recordaban a los estilos tradicionales de Chiapas y Yucatán.

En la primera fila se encontraban figuras como Salma Hayek, Lila Downs y Yalitza Aparicio, junto a representantes de comunidades indígenas que colaboraron directamente en el proyecto. El desfile abrió con una conmovedora interpretación en vivo de Vivir Quintana, cuya música feminista dio el tono emocional a una presentación basada en la fuerza, la belleza y la resistencia.

En un momento en que la moda todavía busca cómo relacionarse éticamente con las culturas del mundo, el desfile de Dior en México se consolidó como un ejemplo de colaboración auténtica y respeto profundo, demostrando que la alta costura puede ser también una celebración compartida de identidad, memoria y arte vivo.